Vynil (PVC) tiles :

The installation was easy if you are familiar with working with laminates. We applied contact cement to the ceiling using a roller and allowed it to dry. Then we applied the same contact cement we used on the ceiling to the back of the ceiling tiles and allowed it to dry for a few minutes and started to apply them to the ceiling. They were easy to cut and surprisingly durable considering how thin they are. The thickness allowed for easy cutting around the perimeters.  To touch up and to hide seams where the tiles meet together I purchased some metallic paint from the craft store that matched perfect.
 
    

Jarrod C.    

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I began by installing a ½” thick X 5” wide edge board around perimeter of ceiling.

After laying out location of center tile, I applied a coat of contact cement to entire ceiling and four tile backs.

I installed center tile and rubbed all flat areas with a cotton cloth.

Before installing next tile, I rolled a coat of glue over the lap joint area of the installed tile.

I then installed the next tile rubbing the flats and seam firmly with a cotton cloth.

I continued this process until ceiling was filled.

I slipped the lap joint edge under the edge board on two outer walls, the pattern landed perfectly at board edge.

The end walls and around the chimney landed two to three inches in from tile edges.

I cut each tile to butt tightly against edge board and caulked them using GE XLS paint able silicone 50-year caulk.

I finished with three sprayed coats of 100% acrylic latex paint.
  

A.

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We got off a little when I had to cut around the air return vent and attic access stair pull-down, but once we got beyond that, we're keeping a good straight line and knocking them right out.
 
Suggestions:
 
We're using Sta-Put adhesive which is used for formica counter tops.  Roll it on with a high density roller (doesn't absorb a lot) by putting a thin coat on the single - we've been applying to 2 squares at a time, then to the tiles themselves.  They are sticking really well.
 
For a straight line, I have a laser level with the red beam.  We're doing this in lines across the 24 foot wall, so I mark my 2 ft mark on one wall, then the same on other wall, but attach the laser line to the ceiling - gives us a straight line to work from.  Works great!
 
 
So, we're very pleased and very impressed by the look it gives.

Reginald.

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Polystyrene tiles:

Because of the age of the house (112 yrs.), the raftors were uneven and I installed 3/8 inch plywood to give me an even surface. I used ceramic wall adhevise over the complete surface when installing the tiles. Instead of using my hands to press the tiles in place, I used a new 9 inch paint roller with a 1/2 inch knap to press the tile in place. An even pressure is much easier to obtain and it does not leave any finger indents. I used a 3/16 adhevise trowel to apply the adhesive. This type of ceiling is very rich looking and is not difficult to install. One thing to remember, take your time and I covered an area of 4 tiles with adhesive and then pressed the tiles in place. For any spaces that you find afterwards, use painters caulk to cover them. Then if you want to paint the ceiling later, the caulking will accept the paint. DO NOT USE silicone caulking as it will not accept latex paint.  Thanks for getting these for us as we are very happy with them and have had lots of compliments.

Doug (Nova Scotia)

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* If you KNOW that you want to paint the tiles, I suggest you use Benjamin Moore Aura paints, because they're a primer and topcoat in one and it goes on beautifully and in one coat on this surface, at least.

* When you're painting these, it works out beautifully to paint the individual tiles down on the floor with some wax paper beneath them, because if you use newspaper under them, the paint could make them stick to the newspaper.  Then after on has dried a tiny bit, move it up to some high out-of-the-way perch in your home to let it finish drying, which won't take more than a half-hour at the most (at least with that paint I mentioned).

* The tip that was already up on the site from a previous customer worked BEAUTIFULLY -- when you put up a tile, use a dry paint roller to rub it into place so the glue underneath makes a good contact and bond!

* I followed the directions and bought the Acryl-Pro, which worked like a dream, but instead of waiting until I was done to buy and use caulking in-between, I used the Acryl-Pro, itself, with my finger in-between each tile, and I managed to end up using EXACTLY 2 buckets of it for my entire 12' x 20' ceiling.

* I would have probably used more of the Acryl-Pro if I had used a trowel, but instead I used a paint-brush and put a fairly thin coat, but I only put one tile at a time, instead doing a large area at time.  Then again, I was doing this project completely alone, except for having some help when I popped the chalkline to determine the center of the room, working outward.

* Then I touched up those in-between bits with the paint the next day after the glue had plenty of time to dry and cure.

* When I cut this stuff, I basically made tiny little marks at each edge of the tile that had to be cut, and then I used a metal ruler as a straight edge and used the break-off-blade kind of utility knife to cut them.  They cut so beautifully it just wasn't funny.  Clean as a whistle!

I never would have thought I could find something that I would like for my ceiling in Late Deco apartment, because most patterns of this kind of thing are too 1800's for my place, but pattern # U-2 was perfect for me.

- Curtis R.

New York, New York

Backsplash rolls:

I ordered your pvc backsplash and installed it today.  It went up easy with 100% polyurethane tube adhesive, the drywall under was not flat so I didn't want to use the contact cement.  Lowes also has aluminum colored premium caulk now.  It matched the backsplash perfectly.  I used that to trim the top and corners by the cabinets.  I used clear to meet up with the granite.  Here's a couple of pictures.  Thanks for the great product, saved me a lot of money.

Kadie S. NJ